 'WE HAVE no restrictions, no rules - the door is always open, be yourself." So warmly says the brochure for Ty Gwyn on the outskirts of Betws-y-Coed. And arriving at this centuries-old coaching inn, now open as a hotel and restaurant, first impressions were good. Decor in the bar is olde-worlde - with plenty of pictures and highly polished horse tack hanging from the walls - and comfortable - with deep, squashy armchairs and well-worn cushions on the mismatched, wooden farmhouse kitchen chairs. The style works well and doesn't look contrived, rather that it has evolved over many years. We sat at a table, far away from the front door, near the fireplace - but unfortunately, despite it being a blustery December night, the fire was not lit and the temperature was slightly chilly. But the young waiter who took our order was delightful - friendly and efficient - and we sat sipping one of the recommended house red wines off the extensive list out of wonderfully chunky, large wine glasses as we waited for the meal. The menu is varied, with plenty of vegetarian options, from wild mushroom and pinenut stroganoff to mixed vegetable Thai curry. Fish features strongly too, with wild salmon and king prawn dishes, while those in search of vast chunks of red meat will not be disappointed either. We gazed enviously at our fellow diners' well-piled plates, their mammoth racks of lamb would not have looked out of place on Fred Flintstone's dining table. So engrossed was everyone with their food that the bar atmosphere was oddly silent. The small room was reasonably full with couples who all appeared to pass little more than the occasional hushed comment to each other between mouthfuls. It was a real relief when a young family, complete with beaming baby and chattering toddlers, trailed in to break the silence. Starters arrived accompanied by warm, crisp rolls and butter and Bloke tucked into his salty slivers of duck with crayfish with plenty of aplomb. My fat spears of asparagus, which the menu described as being "laced with warm hollandaise" were juicy and not overcooked, but swimming, rather than merely laced, in the sauce. | 
