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Tourism and travel  Environment Article


Cheaper than Kenya - a Welsh safari

By Simon Gwyn Roberts, icNorthWales

 

THE AMAZING diversity of North Wales landscapes is not just a boon for adventurous human beings - who can climb mountains before lunch then jet-ski in the afternoon - it is also fantastic for wildlife. So many habitats in such a small area means that North Wales is graced by a variety of birds, mammals, insects and flowers.

Apart from the famous mountains and valleys of Snowdonia, we also have moorland, marsh and conifer forest. Not to mention rivers, lakes, miles of native deciduous woodland, limestone pavements, farmland, villages, urban landscapes. Have we mentioned the coastline? Cliffs, beaches, saltmarsh, peatland, dunes and estuaries add to the mixture.

A species would have to be extremely fussy to be unable to find an ecological niche somewhere among that lot.

One of the most important things to realise about the landscape of North Wales is that virtually all of it has been shaped by man. In particular, the overwhelming dominance of the sheep has massively altered the region from its natural state by constantly grazing the land.

This grazing gives much of the landscape its beauty, but often alters the habitat that other species depend on. Happily, in recent years many seemingly inevitable declines have been halted due to new farming techniques, an increasingly vociferous conservation movement and a heightened awareness among the general public.

So North Wales contains much wildlife that is now scarce or extinct elsewhere. For instance, there are still quite a few polecats in various parts of North Wales - indeed it is one of the best parts of the British Isles in which to see this elusive creature.

Sadly, you are far less likely to see a pine martin. This classic denizen of remote parts of Wales almost become extinct in Wales a few years ago but survived. Highly elusive and largely nocturnal, they inhabit pine forest (as their name suggests) and scree. They are less adaptable than polecats and therefore less numerous.

When it comes to mammals, you are more likely to spot the feral goats of Tryfan when walking in Snowdonia, or the so-called 'wild ponies' that frequent the Carneddau. The goats are really domestic animals that went wild many years ago - they are not very friendly and will usually be seen from some distance.

A few otters inhabit the wilder stretches of North Wales rivers and are even occasionally seen swimming across the Menai Straits to Anglesey. And a small group of red squirrels cling on to woodland in parts of Anglesey.

Badgers, foxes and grey squirrels are common. As are many smaller mammals: wood mouse, bank vole, mole, hedgehog and shrew. The dormouse is also more common in Wales than in other parts of the UK.

Llandudno's Great Orme is home to a weird and wonderful range of species. From the tiny, rare horseshoe bat to a bizarre herd of Kashmir goats, the offspring of a few exotic escapees in the last century. The limestone on the Orme gives rise to many species of wild flower, while the cliffs are home to thousands of breeding seabirds in summer - and rare migrants in spring and autumn.

Breeding seabirds, clinging on to steep cliffs, are a marvellous sight. Indeed, birds of all kinds are probably the key draw for most wildlife enthusiasts visiting North Wales. The diversity of habitats means that many different species can be seen in a short space of time, and there are numerous speciality species difficult to see in other parts of the UK.

In the ancient oak woodland, the three birds all visitors want to spot are pied flycatcher, wood warbler and redstart - very distinctive Welsh woodland birds, far more common in North Wales than they are in most of England.

Birds like dipper, buzzard, red kite (to the south of the region) and wheatear are all fairly easy to see in North Wales, as are uncommon wildfowl like red-breasted merganser, goosander and scoter.

More common woodland birds like chiffchaff, willow warbler, nuthatch, blackcap and green woodpecker can also be found across North Wales.

In the mountains, ring ouzels and chough might be spotted if you are lucky, although South Stack on Anglesey is a far more reliable venue for chough. The ring ouzel is the closest thing we have to a true mountain species, although a few dotterel land in Snowdonia every May on their way to Scotland. Ravens can also be seen year-round in the hills.

Among the most spectacular avian sights are the black grouse leks on Llandegla moor near Wrexham. Enthusiastic birdwatchers have to get up very early in the morning to see the huge males begin their bizarre mating rituals.

Similarly inconvenient to spot are nightjars. These nocturnal species are best seen at dusk in early summer - the best place in North Wales is Nercwys near Mold.

You should not miss the spectacle of the Dee estuary in winter, when thousands of waders crowd onto the mudflats searching for food. If you are lucky, you might even see a peregrine or merlin hunting among them.

Cemlyn on Anglesey is famous for its tern colony. Although numbers have declined in recent years, especially the rare roseate tern, it is still an impressive spectacle.

Conwy RSPB reserve is a new venture, which arose from the A55 tunnel under the Conwy estuary. It has matured into a superb habitat for wildfowl and waders. All who visit it come back with glowing praise for its facilities, its tremendous views over Snowdonia and, of course, its birdlife.

Over the years, all manner of incredible rarities have popped up in North Wales, especially on Bardsey. During the spring and autumn, almost anything can occur. For instance, Conwy reserve has recently played host to an ortolan bunting, a terek sandpiper, a marsh warbler and an American wigeon.

The terek sandpiper - a highly unusual visitor - caused a real stir among bird enthusiasts and it was estimated that 500 people from all over the UK came to Conwy to see it during its short stay.

It would also be a shame to overlook the smaller representatives of the natural world. North Wales is very rich in wild flowers - the snowdon lily being the most famous

Ever since the Welsh botanist Edward Lhuyd made his first discoveries in the late seventeenth century, the Welsh mountains have been famous for flowers. Juniper, purple saxifrage, Welsh poppy, mountain sorrel and roseroot are among the hundreds of species which can be found. Among the specialities, some might find cloudberry in the Berwyn range, rock cinquefoil and, of course, the Snowdon lily.

The bulbous Snowdon lily was found by Lhuyd, and named after him (Lloydia serotina). It still survives on a few lime-rich cliffs in Snowdonia.

Even under water lurk interesting creatures, especially the torgoch (arctic char), which lives in just a few cold and deep Snowdonia lakes. Even more mysterious is the Gwyniad, which only lives in Llyn Tegid near Bala. People used to say it was unique, but some scientists say it is the same species as the Scottish powan.

The rivers of North Wales are jammed full of brown trout, eel, salmon, and sea trout. Most famous of the North Wales rivers is probably the Dee, but there are many other major rivers: Conwy, Clwyd, Ogwen, Dwyryd, Mawddach and Dyfi. And hundreds of smaller rivers and streams keeping the land lush and green.

Top five wildlife destinations:
Conwy RSPB reserve,
South Stack, Anglesey,
Bardsey Island/Ynys Enlli,
Ynys Hir RSPB reserve, Dyfi Valley,
Point of Ayr, Dee Estuary.

 

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