THERE are literally thousands of rock climbs in North Wales. Inevitably, some are better than others. Of all the easier mountain rock climbs in Snowdonia, we think these are the best. All will provide a fantastic day out and lasting memories. Grooved Arete, Tryfan A magnificent expedition, arguably the best of its kind in North Wales. Graded Very Difficult, the route weaves up to the summit of the North Tower on Tryfan. Atmosphere and scale are tremendous throughout, and the climb subtly builds to a memorable climax high above the east face. A sequence of enjoyable grooves leads to a break on a large terrace. Above, a big pitch up a groove becomes increasingly exposed and serious until a tricky step left gains 'the haven', a little patch of greenery amidst steep and hostile granite. Above is the 'knight's move', a delightful slab that is traditionally regarded as the hardest part of the climb (it isn't, that bit is below). Lovely delicate climbing leads to a perched eyrie and the end of major difficulties. Knobbly black rock leads to the top. Main Wall, Cyrn Las Of all the easier classic climbs in North Wales, this is probably the one with the biggest reputation. Long, exposed and rather serious - it is a fantastic climb that lives long in the memory of all those who do it. Graded Hard Severe, it cunningly picks a way through the intimidating main face of Cyrn Las, a frightening looking crag high up on the dark, north-facing side of the Llanberis Pass. It begins innocuously enough, but a niggling unease soon kicks in, which intensifies as soon as the second pitch is approached. This tackles an awkward groove and is very nasty when damp - and even worse when wet. There follows an easier, but unprotected, pitch up a slender ramp which tempts the climber back into the middle of the cliff. After this, the raison d'etre of this wonderful route becomes clear. A magnificently varied fourth pitch follows, up an awkward pinnacle above a gut-churning void, with difficult moves to gain an exposed stance. The final pitch is spectacular and hugely enjoyable - a romp up a granite slab suspended in space. Miles above the ground, the huge holds and easy climbing make for an exhilerating finale. |