 THE GWYNEDD Coast stands apart from the rest of Wales. Way out on the western fringe of the country, the area is a bastion of Welsh culture and a beautiful wild landscape of ancient woodland, bleak hills and narrow lanes. The Llyn peninsula, in particular, characterises this part of Wales. A slender finger of hilly land stretching far out into the Irish Sea, it has long been a place of mystery and intrigue. Off the tip of the peninsula lies magical Bardsey Island, Ynys Enlli in Welsh. The treacherous Bardsey Sound makes just getting to the island a fraught affair. Once there, you are effectively cut off from the world - although you can see the coastline at Cilan Head across the sound.
 On summer nights, the weird screechings of thousands of manx shearwaters fill the air and the island forms a convenient natural hotel for thousands of migratory birds. It is a peaceful place, far removed from the pressures of modern life. Back on the mainland, the coastal scenery around Cilan Head, Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth) and Nant Gwrtheyrn - home of the Welsh language centre - is spectacular. Tremendous walks can be made around the main sights.
 But it is not all wild. A mile away from Criccieth is Llanystumdwy, former home of David Lloyd George, and a museum details the life and times of this most famous of Welsh politicians. | 
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