VISITING North Wales without a quick look at Swallow Falls would be a little like visiting Rome without peeping into the Coliseum. Unthinkable. This famous waterfall sits conveniently between the twin honeypots of Capel Curig and Betws y Coed, and has been attracting hordes of tourists for centuries. But a word of warning. Don't go expecting some kind of Welsh Niagara - a violent wall of water sending crashing plumes of spray over boatloads of squealing tourists. You'll be sorely disappointed. Rather, go to enjoy the beautiful surroundings - the rush of white water crashing over the dark rocks, the distant views of Moel Siabod and the tangled trees shading the river banks. You have to pay a fee for the privilege of viewing the falls from the layby on the A5. This is somewhat galling to those who hate paying to view the natural wonders of their own country. But the fee is not too painful. The summer crowds are worse. A more satisfying and peaceful way to experience the waterfall is to take the footpath on the other side of the river which begins from Ty Hyll (the ugly house), a little further down the road to Capel Curig. This shaded path climbs high above the river to give some nice views of the waterfall. The name 'swallow falls' is, like many other anglicised place-names in Wales, the result of a rather charming misunderstanding on the part of chinless Victorians who set out to discover Wales in centuries past. The mix-up lies in the fact that the Welsh word for foaming (ewynnol) sounds rather like the Welsh word for swallow (gwennol). A classic culture clash. Where the Welsh are generally prosaic and descriptive (despite their reputation), the English tend to romanticise. And why not? Lets face it, swallow falls sounds far better than foaming falls (Rhaedr Ewynnol).
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